Saipan, Marianas

Hafadi Adai! and welcome to what is formally known as the Commonwealth of The Northern Mariana Islands. To locals, it’s simply called the CNMI. For the record, this little bit of paradise is officially a territory of the USA. And speaking of records, the Northern Marianas are identified in the Guinness Book of Records as the “most equitable climate in the world.” So, for your weather forecast, think tropical, full sun, 85 degrees with a light island breeze.

Some Facts and Stats

Saipan is 5,976 miles west of Los Angeles and 1,460 miles south of Tokyo. The island is a bit larger than Hong Kong or quite comparable to the size of San Francisco. If you’d flown here from Hawaii rather than sailing in aboard your glorious ship, it would have taken some seven hours (possibly without caviar or champagne, mind you!).

The Mariana Islands Archipelago consists of 14 main islands stretched across a swath of sea some 500 miles tip to tip. The three main islands are Guam, Saipan, Tinian, and Rota. Scientists speculate these islands were formed 30 million years ago, give or take a birthday here and there. They all are volcanic in origin and form a vital link in the “Pacific Ring of Fire.” 

Most people know about the Mariana Trench, which stretches down some 36,201 feet below the surface of the seas making it the deepest water anywhere on Earth. In contrast, Mount Everest towers 29,035 feet above the Earth’s crust. Imagine! All this happened long before CNN would have been around to report it, but was the result of the Pacific Ocean Plate slamming into the Philippine Ocean Plate cracking and thrusting and carving everything in their path. 

But that’s all ancient history. Let’s look at something a bit more contemporary.

Magellan, Men of Adventure, and Missionaries 

Gonzalo Gómez de Espinosa, who commanded the Spanish ship Trinidad after the death of Ferdinand Magellan, is considered to be the first European to make contact with the islanders known as Chamorros, and that was in 1521. The island was formally occupied in 1668 by Catholic missionaries led by Padre Sanvitores. It was he who actually named the islands as a tribute to Spain’s Philip the IV’s widow, Mariana of Austria. At that time, there were some 75,000 islanders. Within 50 years the population had dwindled to fewer than 3,500. 

For the next 400 years, the Spaniards ruled the islands. People from neighboring Caroline Island arrived in 1815 and intermarried with the indigenous Chamorros. Scientists believe the Chamorros arrived by ocean-going canoe thousands of years ago perhaps from Indo-Malaysia. This was considered the “Latte Culture” (not to be confused with the morning gang at Starbucks) so named for the latte stones used as foundations for the houses of the upper class. These stones weighed several tons and were transported miles from the quarries. You’ll still see the latte stone depicted on the island’s flag. 

After the Spanish-American War in 1898, the islands were sold to Germany but were captured by Japan in 1914. Thousands of Japanese civilians settled here to fish the seas and harvest sugar cane. As war raged across the Pacific in the 1940s, Saipan became strategically crucial. On June 15, 1944, US Marines stormed Saipan’s beachhead. By July 9th, Saipan was under US control putting their forces within B-29 range of the Japanese coast. Many historians declare the Marianas Campaign to be the “most decisive battle of the Pacific Theatre.” Slightly more than one year later, Admiral Chester W. Nimitz ordered all aggressive actions against the people of Japan to cease immediately. The war was over. The healing was soon to begin.

The fallen Americans and Chamorro are honored at the American Memorial Park, which is open to visitors from the world over. 

In 1975, the islanders voted to negotiate a covenant to establish a commonwealth with the US. Within three years, this was accomplished and a governor was elected. In 1986, islanders were granted US citizenship but may not vote in the presidential election.

Visitors From Near And Far 

Some 325,000 visitors annually enjoy Saipan’s world-class resorts, 14 miles of beaches, 54 miles of coastline, sportfishing, diving, and hiking. The attractions for the latter include Susupe Lake and Mt. Tapotchau, Saipan’s highest at 1,554 feet. In Saipan’s Botanical Gardens, visitors not only enjoy such offerings as the African Tulip and the Hong Kong Orchid but look to the treetops for some of the 40 species of indigenous and introduced birds including the collared kingfisher. Divers keep their eyes out for parrotfish, clownfish, turtles, and manta rays. Those with dinner in mind, fish for mahi-mahi, marlin, tuna, and barracuda. 

The guy you don’t want to bump into is the Hilitai, also known as the mangrove monitor lizard. His body is a dark green speckled mess with white and yellow dots. Large adults can measure three feet nose to tail tip. 

If all this seems not to be your cup of tea, try instead to catch a presentation of the Carolinian stick dance, shop for shell necklaces (once a form of currency), or sample some local fare. Don’t leave the island without tasting the apigigi, a dessert favorite among the 60,000 islanders featuring coconut wrapped in a banana leaf.

Rangiroa, French Polynesia

Wine Capital of the South Pacific 

The Tuamotu Archipelago is the largest chain of atolls in the world, spanning an area roughly the size of Western Europe. And Rangiroa is the largest atoll in this chain as well as the second largest atoll in the whole world. In fact, the entire island of Tahiti could easily fit inside its 618 square mile lagoon, which is about 50 miles by 20 miles when measured at its largest points. This lagoon is so vast, it has its own horizon and gives the island its name, which means “big sky”. 

Whew! Now that we have these superlatives out of the way, let’s look at some of the details. 

These are not the towering, jagged, volcanic islands of Moorea and Bora Bora. Those will come later. These are low, barely-above-sea-level coral rings covered by a bit of sand and coconut palms clinging for dear life against strong sea breezes and relentless surf. Rangiroa atoll consists of over 250 islands, islets and sand bars, separated by breaks in the reef. Only two—Tipitua and Avatoru, named for the atoll’s only two settlements—are actually navigable.

Shooting The Pass 

Four times each day, the tide sweeps through the Tipatua Pass at over five knots. Whether in the water with scuba or snorkeling equipment or in a glass bottom boat, visitors can participate in this daily ritual along with a staggering variety of marine life. On the outgoing tide, hundreds of sharks hang motionless against the current while lunch or dinner is delivered to their waiting jaws (don’t worry, they’re over one hundred feet down—although clearly visible in the crystal water). 

The incoming tide is a thrilling ride ending in the lagoon’s huge natural aquarium. Some of the clearest seawater in the world is found here and seems to magnify the presence of ten-foot devilfish, many shark species, manta rays and sleepy green sea turtles.

Tupac And Kon Tiki

Ferdinand Magellan gets credit for being the first European to discover Rangiroa during his circumnavigation in 1521. There followed the usual progression of Dutch, Portugese and English mariners and explorers including Captain James Cook 150 years later. However, the first non-Polynesian to step ashore may well have been a prince of the Incan Empire in 1480. 

Tupac Inca Yupanqui, having conquered most of the regions around his capital in Cuzco, was smitten by tales of exotic islands populated by beautiful people and heaps of gold. He built enough sailing ships from Balsa logs to embark a 20,000-man army and set off on a ten-month cruise of the South Seas. The imperfect (mostly verbal) history of the time leads some to believe that Rangiroa, or at least the Tuamotu Archipelago, was one of the port calls from which he returned with “black people, gold, a chair of brass, and the skin and jawbone of a horse”. 

Almost 500 years later, Norwegian explorer and author Thor Heyerdahl sought to prove the technical possibility of such a voyage by building a raft of balsa logs and other materials available at Tupac’s time. His expedition successfully crossed 4300 miles of the Pacific on Kon Tiki before running upon the reef at Rairoa in the Tuamotus on August 7, 1947. 

In 2006, another Norwegian team, including Heyerdahl’s grandson, duplicated the feat in a new raft named Tangaroa. Little else of historical significance has occurred in the islands unless you count 193 French nuclear bomb tests between 1966 and 1996 (but none on Rangiroa).

The Ultimate Wine Snob’s Discovery

You can talk to friends back home about your Old World wines and your New World wines but nothing’s going to bring them to their snobby knees like the 2004 vintage from Domaine Dominique Auroy. Yes, strange as it seems, from cuttings brought to the island in 1992—3500 miles from the nearest vineyards, from vines planted in coral sand guarded from salty breezes by a barrier of trees, from grapes harvested twice a year and brought to the winery by boat, comes a full line of premium table wines.

The winery, which sits in the middle of the village of Avatoru, is the result of a collaboration between Mr. Dominique Auroy, a Tahitian entrepreneur living in the islands for 35 years, and Professor Bernard Hudelot, a viticulturalist from the University of Dijon. In what sometimes must have seemed a fool’s mission, the pair tested over thirty grape varieties to find specimens that would thrive in the particular and peculiar soil and weather conditions of the tropics. 

Not least of their discoveries was that the hot weather combined with pergola trellising techniques resulted in merely a four-month cycle from pruning to picking. Even slower maturing red varieties are harvested in May and again in November, leading to some interesting vintage choices. 

No matter what vintage may be available when we call, the bottles you bring home are sure to help the slide show of your own journey slide by a little bit faster. 

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

As the morning breaks in the tiny town of Stanley, a couple of friends might be found on Ross Road chatting about last night’s lively darts match at the Upland Goose Hotel. Others could be riding out to the “camp,” as everything outside town is known, to lend a hand with some sheep shearing. A clutch of ladies might be gathering to put up some Diddle-dee jelly.

Stanley has just one weekly newspaper, aptly titled Penguin News, and one television station. So, there isn’t much in the way of media to provide distraction. In many ways, a day in the life of a Falkland Islander is much the same as it’s been for approximately the last 150 years — filled with work, family, friends, and the desire to carve out a happy life in this remote island outpost.

The Struggle for Control

Though it’s believed that the Falkland Islands were sighted even before the 17th century, historians do know that a British lad named Strong did come ashore here in 1690. Seventy years later, the French established an enclave in a spot known as Port Louis which they quickly sold to Spain. The British themselves became entrenched in an area of the Falklands known as Saunders Island. (Remember there are approximately 700 Falkland Islands in total although most activity surrounds only two — East Falkland and West Falkland.)

Another 60 years passed before the United Provinces of the River Plate claimed control over Port Louis. This Argentine-based group remained firmly in power until Americans forces decided to flex their military muscle. They were unhappy that the Argentines were holding American citizens who had been charged with operating a sealing trade in the region.

In the year 1833, members of the English navy routed the Argentines. Falkland Islanders enjoyed a quiet, prosperous, stable and somewhat charmed life for 149 long years. Then, in 1982 Argentine forces invaded the Falklands at dawn. The out-manned islands fell within hours. A quickly-mustered British assault force steamed 8000 miles from England to defend their people who remained under Argentine control for eleven weeks. Two hundred fifty eight British military men lost their lives. So too did three Falkland Islanders. Twelve thousand Argentine troops surrendered and the matter drew to a costly close.

Maritime Heritage

The tiny town of Stanley has been the capital of the Falklands since 1845. Stanley’s harbor has always been very good for ships needing provisions and a safe anchorage. The neighboring countryside provided an almost endless supply of fuel, in the form of peat, for these vessels. And ship repairs have long been an island specialty.

But Stanley really experienced its glory days during the great California Gold Rush in the 1850s. At that time, a steady stream of ships attempted to round Cape Horn to get to their share of the riches. There was heavy sea traffic in both directions.

Sailors were also lured to this part of the world because of the great abundance of whales, seals, and penguins. Their oils were exported to light parlor room lamps throughout Europe and North America.

During this time, many of the ships sailing around the Horn were either manned by inexperienced crews or were just un-seaworthy. Scores were forced to turn back to the Falklands for emergency repairs, or worse. Many ships were simply battered beyond repair.

The Falklands became the final resting place, rather like a maritime graveyard, for a number of these old ships. Many were run aground, deliberately wrecked, or literally abandoned by their officers. To this day, several high-and-dry wrecks and hulks of colliers, packets, clipper ships, iron barques and others lay rusting and rotting within view of Stanley proper. Many date back to the mid-1800s. Among them are the Jhelem, the Charles Cooper, and Lady Elizabeth. In fact, more than 100 wrecks have been charted just in the Falklands alone.

When the Panama Canal was opened, cargo ships no longer were required to endure the arduous journey around Cape Horn. They could cut precious and costly days off their itinerary by simply crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific through the canal. The Falklands’ importance waned a bit. The islands did experience a revival, of sorts, as a base for vessels heading toward Antarctica. Asian and European fishing fleets, sailing in search of Fuegian herring, rock cod, hake, skate and whiting, headquartered in the Falklands.

At Day’s End

As the day ends in this remotest of places, the aroma of roast mutton fills the air. Campers, as those living out of town are called, head home across the moors in muddied off-road vehicles. A weary shepherd ties up his tired horse, which remains an effective means of transportation even today. And a young couple heads off to the pub for another friendly game of darts. After all, today is like so many others in the life of a Falklander.

Nuka 'alofa, Tonga

It’s been said that Tonga is the land where the new day dawns, where time begins. And, in fact, that’s so. You see, long ago cartographers curiously drew the International Dateline to zigzag 500 miles east of Tonga, therefore east of the 180th meridian. This mapmaker’s whimsical detour afforded Tonga the honor, thusly, of being the first land in the entire world to “see the new day.” * Stranger still is the fact that Toga and Samoa share exactly the same time but are technically one day apart because they’re on opposite sides of the Dateline. Go figure.

Nonetheless, Tongans greet each new day at an ever-so-leisurely pace. And have for centuries. Because of this, their days are easy, their lives unhurried, and their blood pressures a doctor’s dream.

Somewhere Beyond The Sea

Some 150 to 200 islands, sprinkled across 575 miles of the South Pacific, belong to Tonga. Of these, only fifty or so are home to year-round residents who till the soil, fish the seas, and educate their children who boast nearly a 99% literacy rate. 

There are three main island groupings in Tonga including Vava’u to the north, Ha’apai in the center, and Tongatapu in the south. And the majority of the islanders, more than two thirds to be exact, reside on Tongatapu where the nation’s capital, Nuku Alofa, has been located for more than 600 years. “Nuku” by the way means “abode” and “Alofa” means “love.”

Early Visitors

Many scholars believe Polynesian people migrated south to Tonga from Western Samoa 2500 years ago, give or take. To Samoans, the word “tonga” actually means “south” in their native language. Their life was simple and typically pacific, save for the occasional rounding up of warriors to man war canoes for attacks on nearby islands. These actions, of course, were necessary to expand the Tongan Empire.

Then, in 1643, Dutch explorer Abel Janszoon Tasman came ashore in Tongatapu to trade with local people. (Two other Dutchmen--Schouten and Le Maire--had already sailed through the northern islands in 1616.)

Others European mariners followed but it was Captain James Cook, during his second voyage, who became so enamored with Tonga that he affectionately dubbed them the “Friendly Islands.” History tells us Cook stayed on in Tonga for more than two months. He developed such a bond with the Tonga ruler Fatefehi Paulaho that, in 1773, Cook presented him with a tortoise that enjoyed the “royal treatment” and lived to roam about unharmed for the next two centuries. Visit Cook’s Landing Place to relive this time.

Captain Bligh and Others

Captain William Bligh, while commanding HMS Bounty in the seas off Tonga’s island of Tofua, wrangled with Fletcher Christian and other disgruntled crewmembers. The year was 1789. What followed was the legendary mutiny that led to the Captain and 18 loyal sailors being set adrift in a 23-foot long, open boat to sail 3618 miles over the next 41 days to the Dutch settlement of Timor.

The crew of the British whaler Port-au-Prince was also a bit unlucky in these waters. Chief Finau II attacked these seamen in 1806 and burned their ship to salvage its precious nails. Only a few men survived including a 15-year old named Will Mariner who was protected like an adopted son for the next four years by the chief. Mariner’s account of this extraordinary experience, written with the aide of a London physician named John Martin, is remarkable reading even today.

Men of the Cloth

Missionaries came to Tonga in the early 1800s. One of their most visible converts was the then chief Taufa’ahau whom the Christians courted with a variety of gifts including firearms and other weapons. This firepower allowed the renamed and baptized King George I to conquer neighboring islands and solidify his rule for the next half-century.

This mutually beneficial relationship also resulted in the conversion to Christianity for all Tongan islanders and, today, the most popular religion is the Wesleyan Free Church of Tonga.

Great Britain took over the reins of Tonga’s foreign affairs following King George’s death in 1893. Ultimately, Britain relinquished its sovereignty over these islands in June 1970 when Tonga joined the global family of independent nations. In 1991, she also became a member of the U.N.

Since 2006 Tonga’s monarch has been King George Tupou V, the latest in a dynasty dating back to 1831. The 122,000 islanders live a peaceful life and are eager to share the islands’ highlights with visitors. They include the Royal Tombs of Mala’Ekula; the Royal Palace dating back to 1867; Talamahu Market where carved-bone “dream catchers” and tapa cloth are for sale; the Ha’amonga Trilithon from 1200 AD; the Terraced Tombs called “Langi”; Houma Blowholes where the sea spray shoots 60 feet into the air; and the sunny beaches of Kings Island and Oholei. 

Just remember to keep an eye on your watch so you’re back before the ship sails. It’s easy to forget the time in Tonga.

Nuku Hiva, Marquesas

“I will never go back to the Marquesas—ever!” –Jeff Probst, Host of Survivor, the wildly popular reality TV series.           

So… what was HIS problem? Actually it was a combination of the sand flies (the show was there out of season) and the “purple rock” controversy. Those of you who aren’t fans of the show will no doubt find all of this to be complete gibberish. Fear not. Other cultural icons such as Herman Melville, Robert Louis Stevenson, and Paul Gauguin have found the Marquesas and Nuku Hiva very much to their liking.           

Melville’s haunt was the Taipivai Valley, about ten miles by boat from the port town of Talohae. His novel Typee was set among its lush landscape and waterfalls. It boasts one of the best preserved archaeological sites in the Marquesas.           

Stevenson hung out at Hatieu Bay on the north coast. A statue of the Virgin Mary overlooks the bay and several pre-Christian meeting places from a 1000-foot peak 

The Land of Men 

Historians report that the Marquesas Islands were known long ago as The Land Of Men. But this mattered not to the endless parade of seafarers who found their way to this bit of paradise. According to Claude Nigel Davies in his 1979 Voyages to the New World, “Polynesian women were notoriously uninhibited, and early European visitors were quick to take advantage of their easy-going attitudes. The people of the Marquesas advanced the ingenious notion that the white race consisted solely of men, who had to travel all the way to the Marquesas in order to have relations with the women; only their voracious sexual appetite could account for repeated and otherwise inexplicable visits by Europeans.” 

Well, perhaps that’s too much information! 

The Marquesas count ten major islands in their group though only a half dozen are home to any permanent population. And few outsiders make their way to this neck of the seas unless they’re sailing from one place to someplace else. And here’s where that is.

On the very eastern boundary of the collection of islands scattered across the sea between Indonesia and, well, the open waters off South America, these islands are found at approximately 9 degrees 30 minutes south latitude, 140 degrees west longitude. The closest neighbor of note is Tahiti, found some 800 miles beyond the Tuamotu Archipelago to the southwest. In fact, the Marquesas Islands now belong to the larger group of islands known as “French Polynesia.”

The Land Of Fewer Men 

The Spanish, led by Alvaro de Mendaño, claimed the southern portion of the Marquesas Islands for Spain in 1595. This occurred during his voyage of discovery from Peru. Yet, it was not until 1791 that the northern Marquesas were “discovered” by men under the command of Joseph Ingraham while sailing aboard the Hope, an American trading vessel. Following in his wake were actors in a dark chapter in Pacific history – blackbirders (slavers), whalers, disease, alcohol, and firearms.

Hence, these early visits from foreign sailors during the 19th and 20th centuries brought a decline in numbers for the Marquesans. The harsh landscape has also been a factor in lack of development over the years. Reefs, which create protective and productive waters, do not form in this area where waters wash relentlessly ashore from the south equatorial current. 

Long ago, some 80,000 islanders called the Marquesas home. But at one time their numbers had plummeted to a mere 2,000 and, even by today’s count, there are still fewer than 10,000 Marquesans in these islands. 

Nuku Hiva 

Nuku Hiva is by far the most populated and important of the Marquesas Islands. And, Talohae is its most important town. Fewer than 2000 people reside in Talohae, this administrative capital that flanks the bay that is, in fact, a submerged volcanic crater. In these waters are found yachts and yachties from around the world, bobbing their way across the Pacific. Sights ashore are modest though presented with pride. Muake Hill just outside town and the Vaipo waterfall in Hakaui Valley offer pretty views.           

And visitors will note that this is no longer the “Land Of Men.” Nor are the women still engaged in the welcoming activities of their ancestors. Yet, Nuku Hiva is an important destination for those wanting to roam the haunts and hideaways of the Pacific. Nuku Hiva is a traveler’s find.

Moorea, French Polynesia

Pleasure Island 

“[This place] is the whole thing; the real thing; the thing one has dreamt about all one’s life; the thing which made Stevenson leave Europe for ever. All tellers of fairy tales, and all poets from Homer downwards have always imagined the existence of certain Fortunate islands which were so full of magic and charm that they turned man from his duty and from all tasks… and held him a willing captive.” --Maurice Baring 

Well, no one is going to actually hold you captive. However, you might secretly wish they would. For who among us would willingly retreat from a land where the sun shines without fail, where seas are as clear as a precious aquamarine, where locals smile easily, and where days roll by at a pace only a bit quicker than a palm growing on a black sand beach.

Drama All Around 

As the sun rises from the horizon and tradewinds whip the waterfront, golden rays wash across Moorea’s three towering peaks. Clouds drape the mountaintops in a billowy swirl like an actress’ cape on her way to a premier. This “high” island boasts a dramatic terrain with deep, verdant gorges weathered by time as well as howling wind and lashing rain. Pineapple and coffee plantations now enhance this landscape where vanilla and cotton were once cultivated. 

A wizened storyteller speaks of the time when Hiro, the unpopular god of thieves, planned to steal the Rotui, a nearby mountain and enjoy the toa trees that grew on Rotui’s slopes. But his plans were dashed when Pai, a powerful mythological hero, learned of the plot. Pai created a cackling racket when, just as Hiro was about to make his get-away, he awakened the islands’ roosters. Hiro did manage to pinch a bit off the mountaintop and retreat to his island where the prized toa trees now grow -- the only such place in the islands. 

The spot from where Hiro stole a piece of mountain is now visible as a hole in Mouaputa, one of the island’s three massive peaks. It’s a natural wonder for all to behold. 

European Explorers 

In 1774, Captain James Cook dropped anchor in the waters off Moorea. What he found there was an ongoing war, among the islanders and with those from Tahiti a mere ten miles away. Within 50 years, the two islands were united into one kingdom by Pomare I. The French formalized things further by declaring the islands French protectorates in 1847. With the flourish of a pen in 1880, they became a French colony.

Modern Explorers 

Today jets, ships and yachts bring visitors to Moorea from around the world. They come with visions of Bali Hai from the movie South Pacific or the 1984 Mel Gibson hit movie The Bounty. Or they come with the promise of a magical honeymoon just like the ones pictured in the bridal magazines. Moorea was, after all, known as the Polynesian’s pleasure island. Each arrives with an eagerness to sample these pleasures and a desire to take away with them some of its lessons. 

You might start with a drive around the 37-mile circumference of the island. Pause at one of the maraes, stone temples that dot the island as the few remaining monuments to the original civilization. The contrast with the Papetoai Protestant Church, one of the oldest European buildings in French Polynesia, is significant. Built by the missionaries in the 1800s, its footprint is in the shape of an octagon. From the famed Belvedere Lookout you might be duplicating the experience of one of the original Mooreans as he watched Cook sail into what is now Cook’s Bay with its companion Opunohu Bay right next door. Tohiea is the highest peak at 3,959 feet. A stop at the local fruit and distillery factory introduces you to the true bounty of Moorea. Le Truck, the colorful local transport, might be loading up a load of pineapples for the morning market. 

Before your day ends, though, you must get in the water. The sea is French Polynesia’s truest temptation. Home to a rainbow of marine life, it’s yours to behold with nothing more than a snorkel and mask. Then savor all this in a waterfront eatery with an island-infused French specialty and a freshly-plucked hibiscus blossom over one ear.

Male, Maldives

A Speck of A Spectacle

Marco Polo, who knew the world like the back of his weathered hands, referred to the Maldive Islands as “the flower of the Indies.” Not often wrong, his impressions of these coral blips in the Laccadive Sea were spot on. Resembling a floral necklace adorning a Maldivian woman these islands, islets, and atolls are spectacular from the air, magnificent from the ground, and superb beneath the waves. And, though still undiscovered by many world travelers, be reminded you follow in the wake of some impressive sojourners. Oh, don’t forget your parasol today as the sun here is ever shining.

The Man Who Would Be King

Legend speaks of someone named Koimala, a kind Aryan prince who waded ashore in the Maldives. Over time, locals embraced him as they learned of his royal status, crowning him as their ruler. Truth or fiction? It’s really not known. Many sailors, traders, pirates and seafarers did pass by these islands including Arabs, East Africans, Indonesians, Malays, Persians and dark-skinned natives from Madagascar while traveling the Indian Ocean trade route. Their cultural exchanges left an indelible mark on the Maldives, especially in the people’s physical make-up, religion, costume, and language.            

In 1343, a Moroccan named Ibn Batuta settled in the Maldives and recorded the active trade between Maldivians and merchants from China, Arabia and India. Dried fish was one of the many products loaded into the cargo holds of these passing ships including traditional dhoni boats that resemble Arab dhows. Tortoise shells, coconuts and cowries, as well as coir rope, were other sought-after island commodities. Cowry shells, once an international currency, were particularly valuable. And, from the 2nd century AD on, Arab traders actually referred to the Maldives as the “Money Isles.” Today, the Rufiyaa is the official currency

Though rooted in Sanskrit, the Elu-based Dhivehi language spoken by Maldivians today evolved from Hindustani and Arabic influences and is related to the Sinhala language of Sri Lanka. Even the word “atoll” is derived from this unique language. You’ll hear, “Suvaasthi” (welcome) and “Skukuriyyaa” (thank you) as you chat up the locals.

Faith, The Changing Face of Faith

The Maldives, indeed, were ideally located along the heavily traveled shipping lanes that stretch between China and Malacca. And many travelers who came ashore in search of fresh water and provisions also sought to convert the islanders to Islam. They, in fact, succeeded so well in this mission that Islam replaced the then-established religion of Buddhism.

Sultans and Sultanas ruled the Maldives for centuries. One Sultan, Mohamed Thakurufaan the Great, is still revered today for he and his two brothers successfully drove out the Catholic Portuguese who held power over the islands for a brief disruptive and unruly period during the 1500s. His brevity is still extolled in story and song.

The tenets of Islam are so firmly ingrained in the islands’ social structure today that devout Maldivians dress modestly, avoid alcohol and pork, fast during Ramadan, and pray five times every day. Most islanders are Sunni Muslims.

A Look About

Today’s forecast (and everyday) for the Maldives’ air and sea temperatures, yawn, is 80 to 85 degrees give or take. It’s ideal for the 400,000 people of this, Asia’s tiniest nation -- the whole thing covers 90,000 square kilometers making it 99.9% water. It’s also the world’s lowest country with an average elevation of 4’ 11” above sea level. The highest point is only 7’ 7” high making the Maldives the country with the lowest high point.

Male, the nation’s capital, is home to 100,000* inhabitants though it measures a mere square mile. Its bustling waterfront is alive with fishing boats and ferries. Impressive mosques, with their tall minarets, stand in silent contrast to the jangling din of these produce traders. Properly attired visitors are usually welcome to the mosques if it is not the hour of prayer. Huskuru Miskiiy, the Friday Mosque, dates back to the 17th century. Built in 1656 by Sultan Ibrahim Ishkandhar, it was Male’s main mosque for 400 years. The Grand Friday Mosque holds 5,000 worshippers and is topped with a gold dome. Within the walls of part of the former Sultan’s Palace is the National Museum. Here, artifacts and exhibits speak of the bygone days of royalty.

Little kids in crisp school uniforms and long dark braids amble off to school down city streets that were once only crushed coral. The literacy rate here is an impressive 97%. Older women wearing traditional feyli skirts or dresses called libas stroll to the main marketplace for staples such as breadfruit, cassava, sorghum, bajara, ridge-gourds, brinjals, mangoes, sapodillas and jujubes as well as curries.

Despite the lure of Malé’s sights and sounds, the real magic is in the shallow, fish-filled, ice blue water surrounding neighboring islands. Knee-deep seas stretch hundreds of yards out from powdery white-sand beaches. And the parade of passing tropical fish is enough to make any aquarium enthusiast wild with glee. You’ll see.

Lautoka, Fiji

Fiji’s Sugar City

“Golf balls don’t fall off trees you know.” --Mohan Singh to his son, Vijay 

Hall of Famer and former world number one golfer Vijay Singh may be Fiji’s most famous citizen. A native of Lautoka, he practiced his game by hitting… ahem… coconuts, which did fall off trees and were a great deal more plentiful than golf balls. Vijay’s family was part of the Indo-Fijian community, which for most of the 20th century made up the vast majority of Lautoka’s population. 

The Immigrant Story 

For the record, Lautoka is on the Fijian island of Viti Levu, sister island to Vanua Levu. And tribal law forbids foreigners from owning land in all Fiji. Fijians are traditionally people of the sea and were never forced to work the land, especially the sugar cane plantations. As laborers were desperately needed for these agricultural tasks, Indian workers, called girmityas, were imported by the shipload between 1899 and 1903. These people labored backbreakingly hard in the cane fields and prospered then stayed on after their initial labor contracts ran out. Sugar is still the town’s main industry and the reason for the city’s nickname. Recently, many Indian families have emigrated as the winds of political change have gone against them while indigenous Fijians have moved into the area creating a more balanced population.

Sugar, for the record, represents one half of the islands’ economic base—the other is tourism. In fact, sugar served as the lifeblood of Fiji’s economy for the majority of the last century. The sugar cane processed in local sugar mills is shipped overseas along with local copra and lumber. As you wander about, you might want to munch on a stick of freshly-cut sugar cane from the local marketplace. Savor it as you wander about the waterfront watching this whole yummy operation unfold. 

Sugar, you see, is never far away, even in the tourism arena. On your way to visit such attractions as the Garden of the Sleeping Giants, Raymond Burr’s fabulous orchid garden, the Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple, or one of the highland villages scattered across the island, you’ll pass by not only the Lautoka Sugar Mill but also mile after mile of thriving cane fields. 

Long, Long Ago 

Well before the first European cast his eyes upon Fiji, a powerful chief named Lutunasobasoba washed ashore in a dugout canoe with many of his followers. Some anthropologists believe, whether the legend is true or not, that the original inhabitants of the Fijian Islands did arrive from Southeast Asia with stops along the way in the Indonesian Islands. 

The first record of a European sighting was made by Abel Tasman, the intrepid Dutch explorer for whom Tasmania is named. The year was 1643. It’s assumed he never actually came ashore but sailed on by searching for that elusive great southern continent.            The infamous Captain William Bligh not only ran afoul with Fletcher Christian but with the Fijians as well. While adrift, following the mutiny on the Bounty, Bligh and a handful of companions managed to outrace Fijian warriors who were in hot pursuit of Bligh’s longboat near the Yasawa Islands (part of Fiji). In fact, the nearby body of water is still known today as “Bligh Water.

Foreign Influences

Fearing these painted warriors, most travelers avoided Fiji in earnest. Then, at the dawn of the 19th Century, sandalwood was found growing wild on the island of Vanua Levu. Within ten years of this discovery, virtually all this valuable wood had been harvested and shipped off to China. 

Whaling fleets and Christian missionaries followed, as was the tradition with so many Pacific islands. However, unlike many islanders, the Fijians resisted converting to Christianity and resisted with a vengeance. More than one missionary met his fate by becoming the main course at the local feast.

Turmoil reigned until the ruling king, Cakabau, threw in the tapa cloth and asked Great Britain’s Queen Victoria for assistance. Ultimately, his kingdom became a British colony in 1874.

Speak Like A Local

While English is spoken everywhere, it’s fun to learn a few words in the local language. Fijian consonants can be confusing therefore, without going into a full explanation of the pronunciation, we’ll just illustrate a few words that could be useful during your stay. The pronunciation is noted in parentheses.

Good morning                        Ni sa yadra (ni sah yan-dra)

Hello                                       Bula (mbula), kaise in Hindi

Good-bye                                Ni sa moce (ni sah mothey)

Please                                     Yalo vinaka (yalo vee-naka)

Thank you                               Vinaka (vee-naka) 

When all else fails, a simple smile will do. 

Icelandic Ponies

Well, horses, actually. Ask any Icelander who knows a thing or two about these magnificent animals. You see there are some 80,000 Icelandic pon... (oops) horses in Iceland. That’s one for every 3.5 people. These furry creatures are everywhere. It’s part of the “free range” approach to rearing these adorable equines. And the rider is all the better for it. Breeders claim these horses are more accustomed to hazards like ruts and pits, ledges and slopes found in open meadows across this rugged island nation. Hence, they’re a “spookfree” ride, more sure-footed than their counterparts who idle away their youth cooped up in tiny stalls.

Plus, these Icelandic horses ride like the wind.

It’s believed these horses were introduced to Iceland between 860 and 935 AD by Viking settlers. Horse lovers note there’s a strong resemblance between ancient German and Norwegian horses and today’s Icelandics. Due to the island’s isolation, this lineage has remained quite pure, not crossbred as with its European counterpart.

The breed, as it has evolved in Iceland, is extraordinarily strong. They’re compact, measuring only 52-56 inches (13-14 hands) tall, and able to withstand the bitter cold of an Icelandic winter due to their double coat. But they had little protection against the challenges they faced after the violent, eight-month-long volcanic eruption of Lakagigar in 1783, which destroyed their habitat with volcanic ash, lava flows, and redirected rivers. Up to 70% of the herd was wiped out from starvation.

Thankfully, the Icelandic horse is protected from disease due to strong government regulations. Once a horse leaves this island, it may never return, and no saddles or tack can be imported from off-island. These horses have virtually no natural immunity and breeders protect them with everything they’ve got. They also have no natural predators on the island. Makes for a happy horse, this.

But, what’s so special about these little animals other than they’re terribly friendly and adorable? They have five gaits, unlike the standard three of most breeds. Something called the “tolt” is a running walk that looks a bit odd to the uninitiated eye. The tolt is a four-beat lateral ambling gait that some might liken to a Paso Fino’s “largo”, a Tennessee Walking Horse’s “running walk”, or a kid fastwalking with cookies and milk. When they get it wrong, it’s called a “Piggy-Pace.” When right, it’s a “flying pace” reaching 30 miles per hour. In Icelandic, that’s a flugskeid.

In keeping with tradition, the Icelandic people enjoy horseracing whether it’s steeplechase or flat racing. In winter, these races are often held on frozen lakes. Stallion fighting is another pastime enjoyed by locals. A stallion’s courage is celebrated as it has been since Medieval Iceland. In fact, in times past, brave steeds were honored by burying them with their fallen riders. These warhorses were revered in Icelandic literature along with their warriors. Pick up a copy of the 12th century Book of Settlements or the Icelandic Sagas for a closer look at that chapter in the history of the Icelandic horse.

Iceland

A Land Of Superlatives 

            Strange Isle! A moment to poetic gaze

            Rise in thy majesty of rocks and bays

            Glens, fountains, caves, that seem not things of earth

            But the wild shapes of some prodigious birth,

            As if the Kraken, monarch of the sea

            Wallowing abroad in his immensity

            By polar storms and lightning shafts assailed

            Wedg’d with ice-mountains here had fought and fail’d,

            Perish’d—and in the petrifying blast

            His hulk became an island rooted fast;

            --Rather, from ocean’s dark foundation hurl’d

            Thou art a type of his mysterious world

            Buoy’d on the desolate abyss to show

            What wonders of creation hide below. 

James Montgomery in 1819.

That Moment of Poetic Gaze 

It greets you around every crook in the road and every turn of the lane. This is a nation of such dramatic landscapes that only a poet could capture its truth. Geysers spit forth their steamy clouds. Glaciers grind their icy paths to the sea. Lacy waterfalls drape the rocks in gossamer veils. Volcanoes now stand silent, their power temporarily arrested. And cooled lava deserts crawl toward the horizon. This is the land of superlatives. This is Iceland.           

Curiously, it is a true land of fire and ice. Glaciers and dark lava beds, no longer hot, cover ten percent of the island. And Iceland contains one of the world’s most active volcanic regions. The glaciers serve as a reminder of Iceland’s closeness to the Article Circle. At the same time, the volcanoes are evidence of the submerged Mid-Atlantic Range. Astoundingly, for the last 500 years, Iceland’s volcanoes have accounted for nearly one-third of the total lava flow for the entire world. In fact, some 200 volcanoes dot the landscape. In March 2012, the Eyjafjallajokull volcano began to rumble and spew. The following month, it literally blew its top sending volcanic ash into the air with such a vengeance it disturbed air travel for thousands. Europe and Iceland seemed to suffer the worst of it, stranding travelers everywhere. Today, the volcano is a popular tourist destination, a quiet popular tourist destination. 

The Soul And Inspiration 

Perhaps it is just this landscape, or moonscape as the case may be, that stirred the poetic souls of early Icelanders. Historians believe that the first literature written by the Icelandic people was poetry. In fact, they cite literary masterpieces dating back to the 12th century. For the next 250 years, these authors penned the sagas of Iceland’s first two and one-half centuries. 

There are two basic categories of poetry: Skaldic, which was the work of court poets; and Eddic poetry reflecting a type of free-metre prose. The latter often revolves around heroic and mythical tales. Of these, the Eddas evolved from German folk tales and Gothic legends. Those that are mythical in subject are believed to celebrate the tales of Norse gods. 

You may already know about something called the “sagas.” The closing days of the 12th Century as well as the entire 13th Century are identified as the Saga Age. During this period, authors captured romantic tales and chronicled the events associated with the early settlers. A fellow named Egill Skallagrímsson became rather famous. This Skaldic poet’s Egils Saga, considered biographic, was written by Snorri Sturluson. The Sagas make good reading and reflect the early experiences of those who called Iceland home. They’re witty, laced with complex plots, heroism triumphing over evil, and reminiscent of a social system nine centuries ago that served its people well. The Sagas remain best sellers some 700 years after they were written! 

If you’ve still time for some more reading, consider something by the modern writer Halldór Laxness, a 1955 Nobel Prize winner for Literature. His works let you peek into the daily life of the local people. Select perhaps The Fish Can Sing, Independent People, or The Atom Station. 

Contemporary music fans can pick up something by Bjork, the Icelandic singing sensation. There are others on offer, as well, at the local music store. Be sure to turn the volume way up. 

Some Other Iceland Facts And Stats 

Iceland is the second largest island in Europe.

More than half the country lies above 400 meters.

Ms. Vigdís Finnbogadóttir was the first democratically elected female head of state serving four terms (1980-96).

70% of Iceland’s export income is derived from fishing.

Roughly 120,000 citizens live in Reykjavik.

Iceland’s total population is 313,000.

Iceland enjoys nearly a 100% literacy rate.

Iceland’s average life expectancy is in the world’s top ten.

Family names are illegal if given AFTER the 1925 Personal Names Act.

Reykjavik is the world’s most northerly capital, established in 874.

Iceland’s Parliament is considered one of the world’s oldest.

Lief Ericson (Erickson, Ericsson) was expelled from Iceland in 985.

There are no snakes in Iceland.

Glima, a remnant of the Viking past, is a sport resembling wrestling. Try to avoid taking part. 

But do remember the words of William Morris who wrote about Iceland in 1873, “Surely I have gained a great deal, and it was no idle whim that drew me here, but a true instinct for what I needed.” Mull that over with some local pickled herring and schnapps while watching Prometheus, shot right here in Iceland . 

Heimaey, Iceland

The Puffins of Pompeii 

Well, the Puffins of Pompeii might be a bit of a stretch but not by much when you hear the tale of this windswept rocky outpost you’re about to visit. It has all the makings of a NatGeo-meets-Hitchcock blockbuster sci-fi thriller. And, for such a tiny little place with a population of only 4500 people, it’s got a very big story to tell. So let’s get the facts and stats out of the way then get straight to the heart of the plot. 

Vestmannaeyjar Archipelago 

For the record Heimaey is the largest island in the entire Vestmannaeyjar Archipelago and it’s only five square miles big, or small as the case may be. Some call them the Westman Islands with Heimaey only four miles from Iceland’s chilly southern shores. And, it’s the only island in the chain of fifteen that’s inhabited though that was very much in doubt in 1973 but that story follows. Heimaey, by the way, means “Home Island.” 

If you want to go back to the beginning, however, pick up a copy of “Landnámabók”, which is “The Book of Settlement” relating the events of the 9th and 10th centuries AD when the Norse people settled Iceland. Evidently, in the very early days there was a lad named Ingólfur Arnarson who was the first to actually carve out a base in Iceland proper. Meanwhile, and I’m cutting to the chase here, his close friend (also referred to as his brother) Hjõrleifr Hróõmarsson established a fledgling community elsewhere with a band of ragged Irish slaves who’d been kidnapped from Northern Ireland. Ingólfur discovered his friend had been killed and the slaves had escaped. Distraught and raging with anger, Ingólfur went off in hot pursuit and found the slaves had taken refuge in the rugged mountains of Heimaey Island. Ingólfur tracked them down like animals and slew them for taking his brother’s life. 

So, the moral to the story is… if you want some islands named after you then become an escaped Irish slave who gets killed after fleeing from your Viking masters. You see, the Irish were referred to as “west men” because their homeland was, you guessed it, west of the Viking’s Scandinavia. 

A Real Drama Unfolds 

It was January 23rd, 1973. Just a moment shy of 2:00am, the fine people of Heimaey were rumbled awake by all hell truly breaking loose. A massive fissure measuring one mile long ripped the earth in two. Molten lava spewed into the night sky like a pathway to Armageddon. Terrified and trembling, the townspeople fled to the tiny harbor where some 65 boats from the island’s fishing fleet had taken refuge from a storm the day before. Planes from nearby airfields evacuated 300, mostly elderly or infirm, throughout the night. In all, some 5,000 islanders and visitors were safely evacuated within hours of the eruption leaving behind a cadre of brave people to address the ever-changing situation. Within one week, the town was buried under 12 feet of ash. By Week Two, firemen had set up water cannons to cool the lava flow that threatened to close off the entrance to the harbor. Within one month of the eruption, lava buried seventy homes. Another 41 were set alight by another lava flow days later. Ultimately 19 miles of pipe and 43 pumps sprayed eight million cubic yards of seawater onto the lava flows to save their town. 

Man and Mother Nature played this dramatic tug of war for a total of five months and ten days, day by wearying day, night by exhausting night. In total, 360 houses were destroyed while 400 were left untouched. An additional 400 suffered varying degrees of damage. Scientists estimate 1.5 million tons of ash, ejecta, and tephra rained down on Heimaey’s tiny town and 30 million tons of lava buried much of the village. 

The good news is, of course, no one died during this epic cataclysm and the locals now harness the volcanic heat to warm their homes and offices. If you want to know more, pick up John McPhee’s book The Control of Nature. 

Back To The Puffins 

The Icelandic Puffin calls Heimaey home. That would be six to eight million of them, about half the total population, making it one of the world’s largest colonies of Icelandic puffins. Every August, local schoolchildren go on Puffin Patrol picking up the fledgling puffins called Pysja that, instead of flying toward the moon, fly confusedly toward the city lights. The kids gather them up in cardboard boxes and take them to the sea and freedom. 

If you sit quietly on some grassy hill you just might hear the puffins communicating underground. They do that, you know. From their tunnels. Heimaey is also home to one of the world’s largest gannet and guillemot colonies. The surrounding sea is the aquatic haunt of porpoises, dolphins and orcas. 

And speaking of orcas, Willy of “Free Willy” fame was taken by a US military aircraft to Klettsvik Bay in Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland where he learned to go back to the wild. This story had a very happy ending. Hey, maybe they should make a movie about Willy! 

The Coelacanth

Mysterious Fish of the Comoro Islands

Before the morning sun raises his head above the watery horizon, the fishermen of the Comoro Islands take to the seas of the Indian Ocean’s Mozambique Channel. And like their forefathers before them, their crafts are not usually motorized or equipped with sonar devices. These men hold to tradition with their narrow, hand-hewn outrigger pirogues (called galawas) that bob around in the surf like wine corks. They have only their paddles, the tides, and generations of knowledge to guide them. Most search for seafood they can sell in the busy marketplace. Yet each Comoran knows of the marvels that swim below. They all can recite the tale of the coelacanth. 

Back From The Dead 

Scientists had long been very familiar with a 6-foot-long fish that once swam the depths. His unique form had been immortalized in stone, fossilized there millions of years earlier. Some of these fossils had been carbon-dated to establish their exact age and the “youngest” one was determined to be at least 60 million years old. Others dated back some 400 million years. 

Therefore, without any contemporary live sightings, scientists long believed that this fish had been extinct for at least 60 million years. That fish was a coelacanth. 

All that changed when an unsuspecting crew aboard a trawler sailing out of East London, South African managed to snag and land a living, fighting, breathing Coelacanth… and ichthyologists around the world gasped in unison. The year was 1938. 

A Professor J. L. B. Smith sped over from Rhodes University in Grahamstown, South Africa and decreed that this fish was indeed a coelacanth, although different from its fossilized forefathers in certain details. Therefore, he named this one Latimeria chalumnae and the hunt was on for more coelacanths. Smith went so far as to post a reward for any successful catches. Yet, despite his efforts, the seas yielded nothing more for fourteen long years. 

Then, in 1952, a fellow named Eric Hunt bought a coelacanth from a Comoro Island fisherman and alerted Smith immediately. The elated Professor enlisted the aid of a South African military aircraft to carry him to the Comores quickly to retrieve the preserved prize. With photos splashed across the front pages of newspapers around the world, Smith’s return to South Africa made global headlines. 

Technology Advances the Search       

Twenty-five years passed before another coelacanth was found, despite desperate efforts by many dedicated researchers. Again, the elusive fish was spotted off the Comoro Islands in the depths of the Indian Ocean. A researcher by the name of Hans Fricke had traveled from the Max Planck Institute for Animal Behavior in West Germany to the Comores. He was accompanied a crew of marine specialists. They not only made visual contact through the window of Fricke’s submersible but actually photographed the coelacanth as it swam at a depth of 550 feet.           

Fricke was thrilled for, during his previous two-dozen dives, he had come up “empty-handed.” After studying this fish for nearly two decades, the historic moment had at long last arrived when he actually made visual contact with the object of his intense research. During the months that followed, the team observed a total of six coelacanths and recorded their unusual behavior, which includes swimming with a multi-finned flailing motion and… standing on their heads on the ocean floor! 

Spared From The Frying Pan 

The fact that this fish lives at great depths, and is a bit too oily for most people’s tastes, has spared him from the frying pan. The few coelacanths that have been caught over the years have usually been tossed back. The coelacanth was of little interest to those who knew nothing of his uniqueness. Those who did know how valuable their catch was were, unfortunately, unable to keep the fish alive long enough to turn it over to marine experts.           

Oddly enough, those few coelacanths that were brought ashore in the Comoro Islands were dried and their scratchy scales used for sandpaper! 

Why Did They Survive? 

Fricke and his team observed that coelacanths live in waters that are deep, cold, and lacking abundant food. He theorized that other species might find this environment too unfriendly and thus migrate elsewhere. Fricke also questioned whether their slow movements might actually reduce their metabolic rate, simultaneously reducing their nutritional requirements. 

Whatever the truth of their survival is, these fascinating creatures lived long before the dinosaurs roamed the earth. And they continue to splash about long after the last dinosaur stepped into an unfriendly tar pit. So Mother Nature endowed the coelacanth with something so unique that its secrets may one day unravel the mystery of the evolution of life on earth, which scientists still debate in laboratories around the world.

Apia, Samoa

Polynesia’s Birthplace

“I went off to paradise. I was ambassador to… Samoa.”—Carol Mosely Brown 

In 1997, Western Samoa became quite simply… Samoa, though the sovereign state still encompasses only the western part of the Samoan Islands. American Samoa, on the other hand, still exists as an unincorporated territory of the United States and a breeding ground for National Football League linemen. Originally, the entire Samoan island group was known as Navigators Islands out of respect for the seafaring skills of their inhabitants. 

Many learned scholars and educated anthropologists give a collective nod to Samoa as “Hawaiki [the] cradle of all Polynesian culture.” They believe that these islanders’ forefathers braved uncharted seas and uncertain futures when they sailed to Samoa from Southeast Asia. Polynesians from widely scattered islands like Hawaii, Tahiti, Tonga, Easter Island, and New Zealand agree that Samoa is indeed the birthplace of their cultures.           

In The Beginning 

On the other hand, Samoans themselves look toward their beloved god Tagaloa as the source of their unique creation. It is said that Tagaloa existed in a world devoid of all living things. His task was to change this bleak picture by creating the earth and the rivers, the sky and all the lands. Next, this god created a man and a woman and sent them forth to populate the land. With the sweep of his powerful hand, Tagaloa made the night skies as well as the stars above, the warm sun, and the moon that cast light upon the darkness. 

In time, the wise chief Manu’a was named to rule the people and the lands were carved up into the islands we now know as Manu’a (part of Samoa), Fiji, Tonga, Upolu, and others. 

With his daunting task completed, Tagaloa departed this world commanding that all mankind respect Manu’a which, today, has evolved into the spiritual center for the Samoan Islands and, to many others, all of Polynesia. 

An Author’s Paradise 

An author many considered a literary god was Robert Lewis Stevenson. This noted Scottish novelist, poet, and essayist lived in Apia for four years with his Indianapolis-raised wife Fanny (Frances Osbourne). He had grown ever so weary of Scotland’s damp cold as well as the complications it caused for his tuberculosis. Following a short stay in America, Stevenson set sail for Samoa. It seemed Samoa would be just what the doctor ordered. Stevenson built a home 600 feet above the town in 1889 and named it Vailima. And though the author adored this island life, his love for Scotland never waned. So, to honor his homeland, Stevenson’s household staff wore traditional lava-lavas yet they were made with the Stuart tartan design. 

Vailima eventually became the Prime Minister’s official residence. 

While in residence at Vailima, his “beautiful, shining, windy house,” Stevenson was known as “Tusitala” or the “Teller of Tales” and wrote Catriona and The Wrecker. Following his death, his body was buried 1,540 feet up Mt. Vaea, carried there over a hand-dug road (known as The Way Of Loving Hearts) that had been built by islanders who revered Stevenson greatly. The Samoan chief who spoke at the author’s service declared that on that day “the stones and the earth wept.” Stevenson’s headstone reads: 

Under the wide and starry sky 

Dig the grave and let me lie 

Glad did I live and gladly die, 

And I laid me down with a will.

This be the verse you grave for me;

Here he lies where he longed to be;

Home is the sailor, home from the sea;

And the hunter home from the hill. 

Film Stars and Military Stripes 

Travelers to Apia soon hear the tale of a legendary lady named Aggie Grey. She was the proprietress of the celebrated hotel bearing her name. Aggie had come into this world the child of a Samoan woman and a British chemist. In the early 1940s Aggie swung open the doors to her famous watering hole. American servicemen stationed in Apia during World War II soon found respite there, as did James Michener who enjoyed the conversation and a hamburger or two. Some claim, in fact, that Aggie Grey is the spirit behind Michener’s character “Bloody Mary.” 

Hollywood heartthrob Gary Cooper also enjoyed the comforts of Aggie Grey’s while on location in Samoa filming “Return to Paradise” at Lefaga Bay. Many a movie scout claims this to be “the perfect beach.” 

Agana, Guam

A Pacific Stew 

Guam is, quite simply, a mixed metaphor. 

As an unincorporated territory of the United States, it’s alive with American accents, American retail brands, American-style shopping malls, and a significant American military presence. 

But the largest segment of the population on this 30-mile-long, 210-square-mile island is related to the original Chamorro inhabitants who are working mightily to keep vestiges of their culture and language alive. In fact, not long ago the name of the island’s capital was changed from Agana to the Chamorro version, Hagåtña. 

There are remnants and reminders of the Spanish years, as well, which lasted from Magellan’s arrival in 1521 to the Spanish-American War in 1898. 

Into this stew, stir tourists. Tourism is the number one industry in Guam with more than 1 million visitors annually. Guam is an attractive holiday destination for Asians, with approximately three-fourths hailing from Japan. Just know that Guam is 1500 miles from the Philippines and from Japan, and 3300 miles west from Hawaii. 

So, now that you are here, how would you like to spend your day? Many visitors come to pay their respects and remember the events of World War II for Guam was strategically important in the Pacific Theater and saw significant military action. Others spend their time shopping for designer brands at duty-free malls. Some explore authentic Chamorro villages or visit historic Spanish forts. Many enjoy simply spending time with sailors stationed here with the U.S. Navy. Whatever your interests are, it’s all here and all available during your call to Guam. 

The Chamorro Years 

The Marianas Chain was occupied as much as 4000 years ago.
Note that archeologists’ opinions vary on the date by 500 years, give or take, as to when these people reached Guam. It is believed they were of Indo-Malaya descent and their language and culture are not unlike those of the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia. 

Their customs dictated that there were separate social strata for their people complete with nobles and workers. The most powerful leaders were known as chamorri. 

The Spanish Years 

It was the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan who “discovered” Guam while sailing for Charles V of Spain. He initially named the area Islas de las Velas Latinas for the unique lateen-sailed sailing proas the Chamorro people used to sail out and meet his ship Trinidad. Magellan’s admiration of these people ended abruptly when a scuffle broke out after the Chamorros took one of Magellan’s rowboats. According to local custom, taking things was expected in return for gifts offered to the Europeans. Nonetheless, Magellan’s men killed several islanders and torched their homes before sailing on. Magellan also changed the name to Islas de Los Ladrones, the Island of Thieves. 

Guam became a watering hole, so to speak, for Spanish sailing ships plying the Pacific. Even so, the island was virtually undisturbed by Europeans who were not attracted to settle here. The only ones really interested in Guam were Catholic missionaries who set about converting the islanders to Christianity and doing away with some island traditions. High on their list was convincing everyone to wear clothing. 

Clashes eventually occurred and the leading Jesuit priest, Padre Diego Luis de Sanvitores, was killed. Spanish soldiers arrived by the galleon-load to avenge this murder and succeeded in literally wiping out the entire male population of the Chamorros. The troops stayed on after the fighting ceased and intermarried with the few remaining Chamorro women, diluting forever the purity of their people. Today, their descendants represent 37% of the population. Eighty-five per cent of Guamanians are Catholic. 

The War Years 

America seized control over Guam in 1898 when resident Spanish troops failed to repel their landing, as the Spaniards were completely unaware that war had been declared between the two countries. And, it has even been reported that the Spanish were so oblivious to this news that when the American ships fired their cannons, the Spanish immediately responded by asking forgiveness for not returning the military salute as they were short of ammunition. 

World War II came to Guam with a fury. While many Japanese planes were unleashing their firepower on Pearl Harbor in December 8, 1941, others were concentrating their might on Guam. Shortly thereafter, some 5,000 Japanese soldiers landed on Guam’s beaches. For nearly three years they ruled the island. Following a fierce battle July 21, 1944, the US regained control of Guam and is responsible for the island’s defense even today. 

But that’s all ancient history to the youth of Guam who spend their days in shopping malls and air-conditioned cinemas (when not in class). For them, as well as others, these dark days are chapters in school textbooks. For others, the name Guam means sacrifice and courage and patriotism. For you, it’s your next port of call. 

Visby, Sweden

Tossed into the Baltic like a wooden shoe, the island of Gotland is considered by many to be one of Northern Europe’s most lovely.  A mere 55 miles from the Swedish mainland, Gotland is richly forested, dotted with medieval towers, and blessed with a climate that is the envy of its neighbors. 

And the tiny town of Visby is Gotland’s jewel in the crown. 

Vikings and Merchants 

The island’s main city of Visby is a built-in-stone testimonial to the important strategic location Gotland once held.  As long ago as the 12th century, the fledgling city was an important partner of the influential German Hanseatic League of merchants.  As business flourished, Visby’s citizens grew more and more wealthy and their power base reached far across the Baltic.  Throughout the 13th and 14th centuries, they established governmental departments and built buildings from which to administer.  They constructed lovely homes and many fine churches (seventeen, in fact), then surrounded their city with an imposing crenellated wall to protect themselves from invaders. 

This protection, however, proved to be inadequate for, over time, Visby was ultimately occupied by the Danish and Swedish forces, as well as by Teutonic Knights.  Many treasures were plundered, buildings were set afire, and Visby lapsed into a period of decline.  Piracy was rampant.  Visby no longer enjoyed its position of importance as a major link in the trade route between Northern Europe, the Black Sea, and cities of the Arab world. 

“The City of Ruins... 

Visitors interested in history and ruins can wander among Visby’s timbered and red-roofed homes, scale many of the thirty-eight towers scattered about, stand silently in one of the Gothic or Romanesque churches, or ramble along portions of the ancient stone wall that surrounds much of the city. 

Visby itself is laid out on three rather distinct levels.  At sea level, there is a road that skirts the perimeter of the town, with small park-like areas along the way.  Higher up is the town center with its many attractions, shops, and cafés.  Still higher is what one would consider to be the newest section. 

Sporting a pair of good walking shoes, you can stroll through one of the many tiny-but-wonderful squares.  One called Donnerplats boasts many fine period houses, including some that date back to the 17th century.  From this point, you can continue along the Strandgaten, which has long served as Visby’s principal area for trade and commerce.  Along this road are small museums and ancient establishments including the city’s oldest apothecary, as well as other unique ­buildings which house handicraft centers and galleries. 

...and Roses” 

Visby is proud to declare itself “the city of ruins and roses.”  Nature lovers will probably prefer to visit the Botanical Gardens, which serve as a home for a remarkable collection of native plants.  Visby enjoys a mild climate and a soil type that stays relatively warm, allowing plants to flourish.  Several trees in the gardens are centuries old.  And the delightful rose gardens offer a wide variety of extraordinary roses, most quite unique and rare. 

But roses aren’t found only in the Botanical Gardens; they decorate windowsills, cling to stone walls, and form colorful borders for buildings throughout Visby.  Rose fanciers will not be disappointed by the spectacular floral array offered by the good citizens of Visby. 

Among the many churches worthy of a visit are St. Nicolai’s (now in ruin) and Sty. Mary’s Cathedral.  Though St. Nicolai’s is but a shell of its former glorious self, it is almost mystical.  It dates back to the early days of the 13th century and is the work of Dominican monks.  Today it serves as the backdrop for summer music festivals. 

St. Mary’s Cathedral, recently restored, was built by German traders in 1225.  It was thankfully spared when much of the rest of the city was torched by invaders.  St. Olaf’s Church, another interesting highlight, stands in the shadows of the city’s imposing wall. 

Remembrances of Visby 

While the vision of powerful medieval buildings and the scent of colorful roses may serve as a sensory souvenir of Visby, you might wish to add to these great memories with something more tangible.  Throughout the city, you’ll amble past stores and shops offering such specialties as hand-thrown ceramic pots, traskor shoes (typical clogs of this region), magnificent glassware which is world famous, and more.  But should you wish to pass up these temptations, you should seriously consider savoring others such as the absolutely delicious saffron pancakes which are served with a drizzle of mulberry sauce and a dollop of sour cream.  You’re likely to find this specialty at a typical smorgasbord-type luncheon where an array of dishes is laid out for your buffet-style sampling. 

As your Visby visit draws to an inevitable end, you’ll be hard-pressed to disagree with proud Swedes, adventurous Europeans, and globe-trotting travelers who pronounce Visby a rare treat on a short list of extraordinary sights.  Visby is, quite simply, picture-perfect.

Stavanger, Norway

Oil And Water 

Norway, as any citizen worth his salt will tell you, is a nation rich with Nature’s bounty. Not only is it an eye-popping, jaw-dropping tableau, Norway is propped firmly on two solid economic feet. And, the basis for this posture is found in the oil and the water. Modern technology sets the pace for this advanced nation that is financed by the spoils of petroleum sales, hydroelectric power, plus the bounty from the sea. The country’s four million residents enjoy one of the world’s highest per capita incomes. And it shows. 

Oil and water. It’s as simple as that. 

A Glimpse Of The Past 

Scientists speculate that early man shivered his backside off in Norway around 8,000 BC. While short on agreement, many surmise that early fishermen and hunters may have made their way here from Russia or places further south. When the glaciers began to melt, game migrated north and guys in coarse, handmade outfits of skin followed right behind. Settlements dating back to 3,000 BC have been unearthed near Stavanger. In fact, there’s The Black Cave (Vistehola), quite near that provides evidence of early man’s ability to survive in this harsh climate.             

For the record, the name Stavanger probably comes from the Norse words “stav” (meaning steep cliff) and “angr” (meaning narrow fjord). So there you have it.           

While certain characters were important throughout the region’s history, we’ll highlight just a few. King Hakon VI (1340-80) married the daughter of Danish King Valdemar Atterdag. Their son Olav ascended to the Danish throne in 1375 then to the Norwegian throne in 1380 uniting the two nations. This union lasted until 1814.           

There were Norwegian Vikings of note, as well. And scholars point to the ransacking of an English monastery at Lindisfarne in 793 as a pivotal point in their history. It was then that Scandinavians took to the high seas in number, expanding their influence far and wide. In their sights were Germany and France, the British Isles, Iceland and Greenland, even the Mediterranean. They even reached Miklagard, what we now know as Istanbul. Leif Erikson made it to America five centuries before Columbus. And depending on whom you believe, these Vikings were either zealous traders and explorers or ruthless barbarians, freebooters and pirates who left others to tremble and beg God to be spared. As early as 800 AD, there was a large Viking settlement in Stavanger. Vikings became expert navigators and sailors and still master our vessels to this day. Stroll the waterfront and view the old seahouses to complete this extraordinary tale. Or gaze upon Fritz Roed's sculpture “The Sword in Rock” symbolizing Harald Haarfagre’s (Fairhair) 827 AD victory over local rulers consolidating the nation as one. 

Discovering Oil 

In the mid-20th century, locals tied up their fishing vessels and signed on to work the offshore oilrigs. Why? Because in 1969 oil was discovered in the North Sea. During the last three decades, the oil boom has resonated loudly throughout Stavanger. In fact because of this thousands of people from nearly 100 countries have joined the 100,000 local residents to share in this industry. A visit to the Petroleum Museum is a must. And wear comfortable clothing so you can climb on the rig model just like a true offshore oil worker.           

For the record, there’s enough oil (5 billion tons, more or less) in the North Sea to service Norway’s needs for the next four centuries. 

Other Interests 

Approximately one million Norwegians have emigrated to America. And, it is claimed that there are more folks living in the US with Norwegian ancestors than there are citizens of Norway living in Norway. Five million versus 4.3 million, according to a census of ten years back. So, if you’re one of those fair-haired folks who may have a trans-Atlantic connection, you might want to visit the Emigration Center. Why did these folks leave for the New World? What stories did they tell? Unravel this mystery and that of your ancestry while speaking with the center’s experts or doing research on their computers. It’s worth it. You just might be a missing link between the two nations.           

If you want to explore on foot, don’t miss Gamle Stavanger, “Old Town” complete with shaded back alleyways and a bustling harbor walkway. It won’t be hard to find the Fish Markets where you can sample bacalao (dried salted cod), a thick fish soup, or fish cakes made from white fish, cream and a dash of herbs and spices. 

The heartier might want to scale the 1800-foot Pulpit Rock for a glorious view of the mountains and the fjord. Others might want to pause in the Domkirke, Stavanger Cathedral, dating back to 1125. Though it was damaged by fire in the 13th Century, it still provides a quiet sanctuary for the faithful.

Before you return to your glorious ship, do sample a “lapper.” That’s a thick and tasty, traditionally Norwegian pancake served piping hot with a dollop of local jam and a plop of sour cream. In fact, take two… they’re not that fattening! 

St. Petersburg, Russia

City of the White Nights 

A gentle mist rises from the Neva River as Crystal Harmony slices through the grey-blue waters of the outgoing tide. Stand on deck as the morning sun lights the dachi, or summer houses, that dot the countryside. Further on, the riverbanks are lined with large apartment blocks and factories. Inside, the people face the day which includes, for many, studies at the University, work at the plant, or the daily ritual of tending to the family. As they consider this day nothing more than routine, for you it's something you've waited for perhaps for a lifetime...certainly since you'd read about the Czars and Czarinas, Peter the Great, the Hermitage, Lenin and the Bolsheviks, the ballet and Barishnikov. Today, you shall see Russia. 

City Sights 

St. Petersburg, formerly Leningrad, is a beautiful city befitting a Czar with impressive squares, beautifully-maintained parks, broad boulevards or prospekts, and palaces and monuments that depict a previous regal life. Architects and city planners constructed a jewel of a city that reflects its imperial beginnings. It is mirrored in every gilded spire, each massive column, and ornate facade of windows. Unless you stick to a well-thought out plan, you might be tempted to just wander through the city streets. A formal sightseeing itinerary or guided tour will provide you with the best use of your precious hours ashore. 

The Peter and Paul Fortress looms up on the banks of the Neva River just across the Kirov Bridge. Within the fortress walls is the impressive Peter and Paul Cathedral with its famous sarcophagi of Russian Emperors from the days of Peter the Great. Peter's tomb can be found within the Cathedral. 

St. Isaac's Cathedral, the third-largest domed church in the world, is topped off with a massive gilded cupola supported by 60-foot high pillars of solid stone. It is said that there are more than 200 pounds of pure gold decorating the structure.    

The battleship Aurora is tied up along the Great Neva River, a testimonial to her crew who went over to the side of the Bolsheviks in early 1917. Later that year, the Aurora fired the shot which ordered the revolutionaries to attack the Winter Palace and the Provisional Government which had retreated onto the Palace grounds. This ship's cannon shot literally signaled the beginning of Lenin's rule and the taking over of the government by the Bolsheviks. Today, visitors can see the Aurora where she has been moored since 1948. 

Across the river, on the south side of the Neva, is Palace Square which is acclaimed as one of the world's most spectacular. Here you'll find the lovely, baroque Winter Palace which was built in the mid-1700s, and the Hermitage Museum which houses close to three million pieces acquired over the years by seven czars. Within the Hermitage Museum is the Gold Room, or Treasury Room, which exhibits elegant gold pieces from Scythian tombs and jewelry from the private collections of Czarist nobility. Works by Gauguin, Matisse, Renoir, Van Gogh, Picasso, Titian, and Rembrandt are all displayed here. In the center of the square is the Alexander Column, dedicated to those Russians who triumphed over Napoleon.             

Nevsky Prospekt is lined with impressive 18th- and 19th-century architecture. At the Alexander Nevsky Monastery you can visit the graves of Dostoevsky and Tchaikovsky.

Beyond the City

Traveling outside the city proper is an interesting experience. Along the route you'll see a bit of the countryside and her rural people who tend this land. Near Pavlovsk is Czar Paul's elegant summer palace built by Catherine the Great for her son in 1777. In Pushkin, travelers visit Catherine Palace. Commissioned to create something on the scale of St. Petersburg's Winter Palace, the architect of Catherine Palace designed a 1000-foot long facade that is painted a beautiful blue. Also in Pushkin is Alexander Palace, surrounded by manicured gardens, where Czar Nicholas II lived with his family during the final days of Imperial Russia. 

Petrodvorets is the site of Peter the Great's Palace. Its most famous feature is the Great Cascade, one of the world's most spectacular fountain complexes. Here, water flows through a series of fountains designed as water games to entertain the Czars. 

Memories of Russia 

Whether you spend your time sampling Russia's finest caviar and smoked salmon, shopping for matryoshka (or nesting) dolls and fur hats, or simply striking up a conversation with a local schoolboy on a park bench, your impressions of Russia shall be etched forever in your mind. It's a country that has long held a fascination for Westerners who now view her citizens as friends in a friendlier world. Be prepared to photograph or video, sketch or simply remember your very special day ashore in Russia. 

A short blast of the ship's whistle and the glow of the White Nights of St. Petersburg will signal the close of this memorable day. 

Skagen, Denmark

If you look at a map of Denmark, you’ll discover that Skagen is indeed the furthest, most northerly point in the country.* Well the mainland part, considering that the Faroe Islands and Greenland are both autonomous countries within the Kingdom of Denmark. Anyway, that’s it, right there at the tippy top. In fact, if Denmark was a Christmas tree, that’s where you’d put the star. A milk shake? It’s where the cherry would go. You get the picture. Any further north, you’d better be wearing a wet suit.           

Perhaps that’s why so many famous Danish artists made their way to Skagen… because of its brooding, remote isolation. Its end-of-the-earth, on-the-edge-of-the-beyond feeling. Maybe that’s what inspired them for all the imagery that swirled through their heads. There’s a chance you, too, will be swept up in Skagen’s mystical magic as well as its defining sunlight, and just let your creative juices flow. 

What’s In A Name? 

First of all, it’s not Skah-gehn. Certainly not. Locals pronounce it Skain. Or, occasionally in English as The Skaw. Why? Because they can. There aren’t really a lot of them, only about 8,000, though that number multiplies in spades as the town receives some two million visitors each year.   

Some early visitors were rather famous and perhaps none more so than King Christian X and Queen Alexandrine. In the early days of the 20th Century, they enjoyed many stays in Skagen with a gaggle of friends. The spotlight, as it were, shone brightly on this tiny town. The royals enjoyed the comfortable surroundings of Klitgaarden, the official summer residence for Danish monarchs. 

There is a bountiful herring offering in Skagen’s adjacent waters for fishermen willing to risk these sometimes brutal seas. That colorful tableau, coupled with a predictably-glorious afternoon light, lured a retinue of Impressionist artists. With easel, brushes, smocks and such, these Scandinavians became known as the Skagen Painters. It’s a rather uninspired name for a vastly inspired group of artists. Their stories and works speak volumes of their talents and gifts as practitioners the visual arts. Art enthusiasts will mention the names of P.S. Krøyer as well as Anna and Michael Ancher. They gained great fame with their works. So, too, a gentleman named Holder Drachmann who was not only an artist but a poet, as well. There were others whose works are among those displayed in Skagen’s Museum. 

More of this story unfolds at the Anna Archer House, the home she shared with husband and fellow artist Michael. A peek into the Brøndrums Hotel gives even greater details as to the comings and goings of these celebrated artists who came in search of the perfect light. That’s not all according to a fellow named Arnold Bennett. He wrote in his 1913 Journal, “What strikes me now most as regards Denmark is the charm, beauty, and independence of the women. They go about freely, sit in cafés together, smoke without self-consciousness. They seem decidedly more independent than Englishwomen.” Perhaps that carefree lifestyle was also an attraction. 

For the record, Skagen boasts the largest fish oil factory in the entire world. It’s a simple factoid you might use some day in Jeopardy.   

Other Points Of Interest 

Nature lovers won’t be trumped by the artsy travelers, and with good reason. This part of Denmark is ripe with wildlife and landscapes, migrating sand dunes, sea eagles, and more. Many like to stand on the shoreline at Grenen, watching carefully for waves, because this is the tip of the top of Denmark. The cap of the Jutland Peninsula. It’s here that the North Sea and the Baltic Sea come nose-to-nose, crest-to-crest with dramatic results.   

And, if that’s not enough, there are the sands of Rabjerg Mile. Sounds like a World War II movie, remembering that this part of Denmark did see action, but it’s not. It’s the curious hiccup of Mother Nature where a massive, in fact Northern Europe’s largest, migrating sand dune is found. Traveling at a speed of approximately 50 feet per year, it won’t break any land speed records but it is impressive. If you stand at the base and stare up, you’ll grasp the fact that it is not only about 130 feet high, it also measures approximately one-half square mile. It’s so impressive, that over the course of 300 years, this sandy quirk of Mother Nature literally swallowed up the Skagen Church. Unlike the smaller structures in its path, the church’s tower still juts forlornly some 60 feet above the dune, a symbol to its divine resistance though parishioners abandoned the church in 1795.             

Well, ponder all these wonderful tidbits about this tiny little get-away that’s so spotlessly clean it seems one could eat right off the street. And, speaking of eating you mustn’t leave town without some sort of herring offering. For many visitors, it’s an acquired taste. Something possibly more familiar to our taste buds is the Skagen ham. Enjoy it with some freshly baked bread, a hunk of local cheese, and a fine offering from the microbrewery that has taken over the former power plant. So that’s what they meant when they said they were generating the juice. 

Saint-Helier, Jersey

“It hath thirteen parishes, little waste ground aboundance of Villages, and but one little Towne called St Helier, plenty of Cider.” 

So wrote Peter Mundy in his 1625 piece Voyages. Imagine, that was nearly 400 years ago. Today there are twelve parishes, an abundance of villages, a not-too-little town called Saint-Helier, and still plenty of cider. In fact, Saint-Helier is the largest town in all of the Channel Islands. Could Mr. Mundy have predicted this would be the case centuries on? Who knows? In one way, little has changed over these many years. In others, it has. You’ll discover the truth when wandering about this historic port town. 

The Channel Island Story 

It might not be what you think. The Channel Islands are, in truth, an archipelago just 12 nautical miles off the French coastline where Normandy flanks the English Channel. The closest land is France’s Cotentin Peninsula. Great Britain is approximately 100 miles away. It gets a bit complicated but these islands, in fact, do not belong to the UK or even the EU. No, they are identified as British Crown possessions enjoying an independent administration. There are actually two of these British Crown Dependencies. One is the Bailiwick of Guernsey, the other the Bailiwick of Jersey. “Bailiwick”, for those of us who were confused, is defined as a sphere of operations. Further, it is the “law of the district or jurisdiction of a bailie or bailiff.” Anyway, these islands once belonged to the Duchy of Normandy before William the Conqueror became King of England and the islands were turned over to the Crown in 1066. 

Jersey is the largest of all the Channel Islands, measuring nearly 45 square miles. And, though it’s not technically considered part of the UK, the UK is mandated to come to its defense if needed.  

Jersey issues its very own currency, which is the Jersey Pound and bank notes make great souvenirs for friends back home. Small bills will do, no need to break the bank here. Jersey even mints its own coins. That makes the nearly 100,000 island residents happy especially those living in Jersey’s only sizeable township, the one you’re visiting today. These folks represent about one-third of the island’s total population.

Jersey Boys and Jersey Girls 

Well, they prefer to be called Jerseymen and Jerseywomen, even though the other “Jersey Boys” are a big splash everywhere today. Approximately 50% of these Jerseymen and Jerseywomen were born on the island. Of those who immigrated here, the largest group came from other parts of the British Isles. Stands to reason. And then there’s the influx of tourists in summertime who bump the numbers up substantially. Why do they come, you ask? For many reasons, really. Well, for one… the cider. Locals have perfected the recipe over the centuries and, as Mr. Mundy observed, it’s evidently here to stay. In fact, there’s even a cidermaking festival in addition to the island’s Music Festival, Film Festival, and something called the Battle of Flowers. This last one occurs because temperate conditions allow for the most stunning gardens filled with rainbows of flowers. So, let the floral firefight begin.  

Locals not only celebrate their festivals, they truly enjoy the bounty their glorious island serves up. Appreciative inhabitants savor some of the freshest seafood Mother Nature provides including spider crabs, succulent oysters, fresh-from-the-sea lobster, and mussels (or moules as they’re called here).   

Apples appear in many dishes. Some specialties on offer include a delightful dumpling known as a bourdélot. There’s also a novelty you won’t find elsewhere. It’s a black butter that’s a mouthwatering concoction of cider, fresh apples, and a liberal sprinkling of secret spices. If you’re nice, perhaps some friendly lass will whisper into your ear which spices are used. And a typical apple brandy provides the finishing flourish. But if you just want a simple take-away snack, do try the “Jersey Wonders”. No, they’re not the next chart-topping boy band, they’re fried dough twists that aren’t on any diet but, when in Jersey, who cares? You must give this culinary delight a go. You simply must. 

Fortified To Do The Sights 

Time is precious so plan wisely. If you want a nice stroll about town, be sure to include a visit to Liberation Square, the former Royal Square. The original significance was to commemorate the 1781 Battle of Jersey and the final attempt by French forces to capture Jersey. Today’s significance is the commemoration of the liberation from German occupational forces who surrendered their hold on the Channel Islands only one day after Germany officially acknowledged its defeat. If military history interests you, you mustn’t miss the Jersey War Tunnels, a labyrinth of tunnels more than 1000 yards long that served as a 500-bed hospital for the occupational forces when the Allies invaded the European continent. For the record, this was the lone piece of British soil ever occupied by German forces during the entire Second World War. 

You can mull this all over as you gaze upon Mont Orgueil Castle, on the island’s southern tip. Constructed in the beginning of the 13th century, it saw combat more than a dozen times between the early 13th and 17th centuries as French forces attempted to take control of the island.  

History, history, history. It might just be time to enjoy a local cider and a bowl of steamy mussels, freshly harvested by local fishermen who’ll happily share an island story or two. You’ll be the luckier for it.

Riga, Latvia

Baltic Bastion

An icy wind whipped off the grey-blue Baltic, buffeting those souls scraping out little more than a subsistence existence long, long ago. Today, however, Riga’s 800,000 give-or-take residents hurry past the very spot where those weary folk staked out their small homes, rarely taking notice of the remnants of earlier citizens who founded their city in 1201. Often, they jostle past massive ramparts and baroque facades as they scurry off to jobs in this active seaport. Visitors, on the other hand, journey from nations afar to Riga to bask in the splendor of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, to study the Jugenstil Art Nouveau architecture, or to pause in the quiet naves of stone-cool cathedrals. The city’s compactness affords even the hurried traveler a satisfying inspection of the capital city of the Republic of Latvia, the geographical “center” of the Baltic States.

Where The Daugava Meets the Ridzene

Considered by local historians as the crossroads between Western Europe and the massive, consumer-thirsty Eastern markets, Riga remains an active business community sprawled along two rivers. This explains her long-standing past as a viable market town. In the 14th and 15th centuries, the city of Riga grew into one of the Hanseatic League’s most important trade centers. Specifically, city fathers were given special permission to transport a variety of goods along the Daugava River to cities further east. The expansion of an efficient rail and road network enhanced trans-shipments confirming Riga as one of the Baltic’s leading business centers. The city’s economic success then spilled over into its respected centers of learning, cultural outlets, as well as scientific endeavors.

Churches and Cherubs

Old Town is home to two of the city’s inspiring churches. St. George’s, constructed in 1202, is considered Riga’s oldest structure. Originally a meeting house and later a chapel, it remains the city’s only Romanesque monument. St. John’s, built by the Dominicans at the end of the 13th Century, has conducted services for more than 400 years. Destroyed several times, it is today a jumble of architectural styles.

St. Peter’s is revered as one of Riga’s most magnificent houses of worship and dates back to 1209 when it served as a merchant’s church. As the 17th Century drew to a close, this structure received a new Baroque façade by R. Bindenschuh, the city’s master builder. 

Doma (Dome) Cathedral is recognized as the most massive church in all the Baltic States. The reality of Bishop Albert’s wish, its foundation stone was laid in 1211. Inside the serene confines is the cathedral’s organ designed in 1884 by the German company, E.F. Walker. Its music still rattles the soul. 

Scattered about the city are architectural curiosities in the form of rooftop adornments. Among them are masked figures, animals, and cherub-like faces. A wander down Alberta Street will introduce visitors to the Jugenstil Movement that features these images in its architecture.            

As It Once Was

Honoring the traditions of days gone by, Riga’s Ethnographical Open-Air Museum is a snapshot of early life of the Latvian people. Serving as a prototype for other European open-air museums, these doors opened in 1924. Masters of 18 different crafts weave and carve, fashion pots and perform typical music surrounded by windmills and homesteads. Many of the structures were built between the 16th and 20th Centuries. 

Riga Castle, home today to the country’s President, was originally designed for the Order in 1330. Draped along the banks of the Daugava, it affords the leader with a clear view of the busy river and the cargo-laden vessels. 

Three Brothers and A Star 

During Riga’s medieval period, it was traditional that members of a single handicraft all reside on the same street. “Tris Brali”, or the “Three Brothers”, is in fact a trio of dwellings standing shoulder-to-shoulder, timber-to-timber. The oldest (#17) dates back to the 15th Century and the most contemporary only to the end of the 17th Century. Their styles range from Medieval to Baroque. Found within is the Latvian Museum of Architecture. 

A “star” was born in Riga in 1948 only to light up the sky, the world’s most celebrated stages, and Hollywood’s silver screen gaining him a coveted Oscar nomination. He began to study dance in Riga at age 15, then later under famed Alexander Pushkin who also taught Rudolf Nureyev. Our “star” performed with the Kirov Ballet, dazzled millions in the films “The Turning Point” and “White Nights”, and was nominated for Broadway’s Tony Award as “Best Actor in a Play” for “Metamorphosis.” Ballerina Gelsey Kirkland gushed about him, claiming he is the “greatest male dancer on earth.” 

Riga’s famous native son is none other than … Mikhail Baryshnikov.